Simple Spanish Food

Rice with Shrimp, arroz con gambas

The first time I went to Valencia I was surprised to find many restaurants did not serve paella. Instead they offered simple but highly flavorful  yellow rice served with meat or fish or vegetables on the side. 

Here's my quick and simple version of Valencian-style rice with shrimp. 

Ingredients

1 lb of shrimp, with heads if you can find them

1 bay leaf

1 cup of Spanish rice, such as Calasparra, Bomba, or  La Marjal. Or use Italian arborio.

1 teaspoon of salt

2 cloves of garlic, minced

1 teaspoon of Pimentón

a pinch of saffron

1/4 cup of olive oil, plus more for pan frying the shrimp

 

First peel the shrimp and reserve the shells and heads (if you can't find shrimp with the head on, just use the shells).

Put the shrimp shells and heads in a pot with three cups of water and a bay leaf. Bring to a simmer.

It's best to let the shells simmer for at least fifteen minutes.

Strain the broth.

Heat  a frying pan or a small paella pan.

Saute the garlic in the oil.  Add the rice and stir. Let the rice "fry" for two minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat. When the rice has cooled a little, add the salt, saffron, and Pimentón. Stir.

Add the broth.  Bring the rice to a boil. Stir it once. Turn down the heat to medium and let the rice simmer uncovered for 18 minutes. 

Towards the end of the cooking time, check the rice with a spoon. It should form a crust on the bottom, but if it looks like it will burn, turn down (or off) the heat and cover the pan.

Let the rice rest ten minutes.

While the rice is resting, prepare the shelled shrimp any way you like. For this post I quickly pan fried them with garlic.

Serve the rice with the shrimp around it.

Easy One-Pot Meal: Judías verdes con patatas, Green Beans & Potatoes

This is another dish that my mother-in-law, Esperanza, often makes for us when we're in Madrid.  It takes about half an hour to make. It's vegetarian (vegan, if you omit the eggs.) It's also authentic--though not something you typically find in Spanish cookbooks.

Here's how to do it.

Ingredients

1 lb "Italian" or wide green beans, fresh or frozen

1lb potatoes

2 or 3 cloves of garlic, sliced

1 teaspoon Pimentón, plus more for sprinkling

Salt

1/4 olive oil

a good olive oil for drizzling at the table

boiled eggs

Bring a big pot of salted water to a boil.  While it's heating, wash the potatoes. Peel them if you like (I never bother).  Cut the potatoes into large chunks and put them in the pot. 

If you're using fresh green beans, wash them, trim them, break them into bite-sized pieces.  Or just rinse some frozen green beans, which work well for this. After the potatoes have boiled 8-10 minutes, add the beans to the pot. Boil the potatoes and beans 10 minutes more. At this point the potatoes and beans both should be tender.  If the potatoes get done before the beans,  just fish them out.

Reserve one cup of the cooking liquid.

Drain the potatoes and beans and leave them in the colander.   Using the same pot, fry the garlic in 1/4 cup of olive oil.  Remove the pot from the burner and let the oil cool some. Add the pimentón.  Stir in the reserved liquid. Add the potatoes and beans. Bring them to a simmer.

Serve with boiled eggs,  good bread,  a good olive oil for drizzling at the table, and pimentón for sprinkling.

 

José Andrés Demonstrates the Spanish Way to Fry an Egg

In a recent article in the New York Times, the Spanish chef José Andrés discusses the Spanish way to fry an egg.  Basically, Spaniards fry their eggs in hot olive oil so that the whites get slightly caramelized and crispy.  I much prefer them cooked this way to the simmering them in butter.

The article includes a slide show with step-by-step instructions on how to fry an egg the Spanish way. 

José Pizarro's Seasonal Spanish Food: 125 Simple Recipes to Bring Home the Flavors of Spain also covers the basics of Spanish-style egg frying.

Serve the fried eggs over patatas fritas (Spanish-style French fries) and you have a famous Spanish dish, huevos estrellados.

 

 

Berenjena frita con miel de caña, Fried Eggplant with "Cane Honey"

 

Fried eggplant with honey is a dish typical of the South of Spain, but during our recent trip to the Canary Islands we came across another version with miel de caña, or "cane honey," which is not really honey at all but a mild, dark syrup made from cane juice--basically a mild molasses.  If you prefer to use real honey, try a dark, mild honey, such as wildflower honey or palmetto honey, which goes much better with fried eggplant than strongly flavored  clover or orange blossom honey.  Whatever you use, the point here is not to make the eggplant sweet but to offset their slight bitterness.

Personally, when I'm frying eggplant, I do it the simple way (which is the way many Spanish cooks do at home). I cut the eggplant into about 3/8 inch slices. I throw them into a bowl of well-salted water until I'm ready for them. I then grab a stack of slices, give them a light squeeze (which dries them).  I dust them with with flour, shake off the excess and  pan fry them in hot olive oil, about 2 minutes per side, until lightly browned and tender.

Does this method produce crispy, lighter-than-air fried eggplant like that served in the best bars of Córdoba? Nope.  But it's good home cooking.  It is no more oily than crisp-fried eggplant, and it's easy. 

If you insist on crispy fried eggplant, use any of the usual methods: batters, egg and breadcrumb or panko combinations, etc.  The white eggplant with miel de caña we had in the Canary Islands was fried with a tempura-like batter. It was very nice.

As for the "cane honey," a very mild molasses would work. I usually just make a quick light syrup of 3 parts brown sugar and 1 part water.  Just bring the mixture to a boil, drizzle it over the fried eggplant, and serve.

Berenjena frita con miel de caña makes a great tapa or appetizer.

 

 

Esperanza's Cauliflower and Potatoes with Garlic and Pimentón Sauce (coliflor y patatas al ajoarriero)

 

Esperanza, my mother-in-law, often prepares coliflor y patatas al ajoarriero for us when we're in Madrid. It's an easy, authentic, and vegetarian comida (and can easily be made vegan, if you prefer).      

Ingredients:

1 cauliflower

4 or 5 medium potatoes (waxy types are best for this)

several cloves of garlic, coarsely chopped

1/2 cup of olive oil

1 heaping tablespoon of flour

1 teaspoon pimentón

kosher salt

extra virgin olive oil for drizzling

boiled eggs

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. 

While the water is heating, wash the cauliflower and potatoes. Cut the cauliflower into large pieces. Cut the potatoes into large wedges.

Place the cauliflower and potatoes in the pot. Boil them 18 minutes (or a little longer, depending on how tender you like them). Towards the end of the cooking time, test the cauliflower and potatoes with a fork to see if they are done.

While the cauliflower and potatoes are boiling, make the sauce. Fry the garlic in the olive oil until fragrant but not yet taking on color.

Add the flour.

Stir and "fry" the flour-garlic mixture until it takes on a golden color. (Careful not to burn the garlic).

Remove the pan from the heat and let the mixture cool for several minutes. Then add the pimentón.

Give it a stir, and, if you like, add a little water (which, because of the flour, will thicken the sauce).

When the cauliflower and potatoes are done, drain them. Arrange them on a platter or in a cazuela.

Spoon the sauce over the potatoes and cauliflower.

Serve with boiled eggs.   Place a good olive oil on the table for drizzling. 

 

Esperanza's Albóndigas: a Simple Spanish Recipe for Meatballs with Saffron Sauce

Albóndigas--meatballs--are one of the first things  Esperanza, my mother-in-law, taught me how to cook.  She always uses equal parts ground pork and ground ternera (veal, which in Spain is simply meat from a young cow).  Here in the States I use straight ground venison or ground bison or ground grass-fed beef.  

Ingredients:

1 lb of ground meat of your choice

1 egg

3/4 cup bread crumbs

a handful of chopped parsley

2 cloves of garlic, chopped

1/2 teaspoon of thyme

1 glass of dry white wine (drinkable, but nothing special)

3/4 cup flour (for dusting)

1/2 cup olive oil

4 cups of water, or chicken stock if you prefer

a pinch of saffron

salt

In a large bowl, combine the meat, egg, parsley, garlic, thyme, breadcrumbs, and a pinch of salt.  Mix well. Let the mixture sit in the fridge at least half an hour.

Now shape the meatballs, about 1 inch or a little less in diameter.

Roll the meatballs in flour until they are well coated.

Heat up a large pot. Working in batches, quickly brown the meatballs on all sides in the olive oil, and set them aside. 

When you have browned all of the meatballs, add the wine, the water or broth, and the  saffron to the pot. Bring the mixture to a boil. Add salt (about a teaspoon if you have used water, little or none if you're using broth).

Add the meatballs and, if necessary, more water so that they are covered with liquid.

Simmer for 25 minutes, and they're ready. Serve the albóndigas with the sauce sauce spooned over them.   

Esperanza always serves albóndigas with patatas fritas--french fries, a green salad, and of course good bread for mopping up the sauce.

Empanada de vieiras, a scallop empanada

 

Many of the best Galician empanadas are made with exotic seafood ingredients, such as fresh berberechos (cockles) or congrio (eel) that are difficult if not impossible to find in the U.S. Empanada de vieiras (scallops) is an exception.  It's delicate, rich, almost buttery (though there is no butter in it), and yet can be made with the previously frozen scallops available in most supermarkets. It tastes like the best seafood empanadas of  Galicia, and it's easy to make. 

Ingredients:

For the crust

2 cups of flour

1 egg

1/4 cup of olive oil

1/4 cup of water

 salt

For the filling

1 onion, chopped

1/2 red bell pepper, sliced

1/3 cup of olive oil

1/2 pound of scallops

saffron

salt

First  mix the ingredients for the dough in a large bowl.

Knead the dough until it forms a ball. Let it rest an hour or so.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 525. 

Saute the onion and pepper in the olive oil. When the onion is soft and translucent, add a pinch of saffron and a pinch of salt.

Divide the dough evenly in two. Roll out each piece into a round or rectangular shape until the dough is the thickness of a coin. 

Place one sheet of the dough on a baking pan.

Spread the onion and pepper mixture evenly onto the dough. Slice the scallops 1/4 thick and arrange them on top.

Put the other piece of dough on the top. Crimp the edges. Cut some vents.

Bake the empanada for 15 minutes, or until golden brown.

Cut the empanada as you would a pizza and serve it as main course or as a tapa.

Arroz empedrat, o empedrado: a Colorful Rice & Bean Paella

Arroz empedrat (Catalan) or empedrado (Castilian) means "pebbled rice."  In this case the rice is "pebbled" with beans. I used black beans, red kidney beans, and green peas, which together with red peppers, parsley and saffron-tinted rice, make this a colorful dish. It tastes good too.

I got the idea for this recipe from Penelope Casas' Paella! Spectacular Rice Dishes from Spain, but I've changed it quite a bit.  This is basically a vegetable paella with an emphasis on beans.

Ingredients:

1 cup of Spanish rice  (Calasparra, Bomba, or a paella rice such as La Marjal are best. Italian arborio will do. But regular long-grain and Asian rices just won't work.)

1 onion, chopped

1/2 cup of canned red kidney beans, rinsed

1/2 cup of canned black beans, rinsed

1/2 cup of frozen green peas, rinsed

7 cloves of garlic, peeled but left whole

1/4 cup olive oil

1 teaspoon of pimentón  (an important ingredient: see my post on pimentón)

1/4 cup of flame-roasted red peppers, cut into slivers (see my post on flame-roasted red peppers), or piquillo peppers

a small pinch of saffron, ground with a little salt in a mortar

1/2 teaspoon of kosher salt, or to taste (keep in mind that canned beans are often salty)

coarsely chopped parsley

In a large heavy frying pan or a medium paella pan, saute the onion in the olive oil. When the onion turns translucent, add the whole garlic cloves. Saute two minutes more.

Add the rice. Stir until it's well coated with oil. Add all of the beans, the peas, and the pimentón.

Stir. Add  two and a half cups of water, the salt, and the saffron. 

Stir. Bring the rice to a boil. Turn the heat down to medium-low. Let the rice simmer uncovered for 18 minutes.

Toward the end of the cooking, check with a wooden spoon to make sure the rice isn't burning.  A crust at the bottom is ideal, but it should be brown, not black. If it seems the rice may burn, turn off the heat and cover the pan. 

After cooking, let the paella rest for ten minutes.  In the meantime, decorate the  paella with parsley and  flame-roasted red peppers or piquillo peppers.

After the ten minute rest, serve the paella.

An Easy Romesco for Fish and Shellfish

In my earlier post on Salsa Romesco I gave a recipe for a thick and flavorful romesco ideal for spreading on toast, much the way you would hummus. Today I'll write about a more delicate and lighter bodied romesco that would be more appropriate for fish and shellfish.  I got the idea for this quick and easy romesco from Jacques Pépin's Fast Food My Way, (and if I remember the episode well, he got the idea from Rick Bayless).

Ingredients:

1/3 cup of almonds

3 garlic cloves, peeled

1 small onion, sliced

several small tomatoes or one big one, cut into wedges

4 guajillo type dried peppers (or substitute other mild dry peppers), stems and seeds removed

1/4 cup virgin olive oil

a dash of vinegar

salt

Fish or shellfish of your choice

 

First dry roast the peppers and almonds in a hot skillet for a few minutes. Stir and turn them to make sure they don't scorch.

Add the tomatoes, onion, and garlic and pan roast a few more minutes.

Add water and salt. Bring it to a simmer.

Simmer for ten minutes or so. The peppers should soften. Pour the mixture into a blender. Pulse until it forms a smooth sauce. Blend in the oil and a splash of vinegar. Taste, and add more salt if necessary.

You can serve this sauce with nearly any type of seafood--grilled shrimp, pan grilled swordfish, whatever you like. We had it with pan-seared cod fillets.

Esperanza's Escabeche

This escabeche is tangy, spicy, and even slightly smoky, as it contains pimentón picante de La Vera. It's a great way to turn leftover fish into something special.  When I see good fresh fish on sale (see my last post about the Spanish way to select fish) I will often buy a little extra just so I can make this escabeche.  It keeps in the refrigerator for several days, and, unusually for fish, the flavor will only improve.  

Esperanza, my mother-in-law, uses mainly "blue" fish for this escabeche, such as mackerel or sardines. But you can use any fish you like, including freshwater fish, also traditionally used in escabeche.   Even catfish would work. For this post I used trout.

Here's how to do it:

Ingredients:

a pound (or so) of fried or sauteed fish (leftover from dinner is perfect)

6 tablespoons of virgin olive oil

2 cloves of garlic, sliced

1 teaspoon  pimentón picante de La Vera (please see my post on pimentón de La Vera).

1 bay leaf

3  tablespoons of vinegar

Kosher salt to taste

Saute the garlic and bay leaf in one tablespoon of the oil. Remove the pan from the heat before the garlic takes on color. Wait for the oil to cool slightly. Add the pimentón. Stir. Add the rest of the oil and vinegar. Add salt to taste. (Keep in mind the fish may already have salt.) 

Place the fish in a non-reactive container.   Pour the sauce over it. Cover. Let the fish marinade in the fridge for 1-2 days, spooning the marinade over the fish now and then.

Serve at room temperature.

Escabeche is great with bread and a salad.  For this post we had it with a veggie paella